PREAH VIHEAR TEMPLE
CAMBODIA, Preah Vihear, 08-11-08, The Dawn Patrol:
Within days of the UNESCO announcement declaring Preah Vihear Temple a World Heritage Site for Cambodia, Royal Thai Armed Forces troops moved into the temple market place and surrounding areas establishing fortified positions. The Royal Cambodian Armed Forces responded promptly by deploying troops to the same area in this centuries-old dispute over the temple’s exact origins.
The contested border area along northern Thailand and Cambodia is a remnant of Western Colonialism when a treaty was signed between Siam and French Indo-China demarcating a land border. While cultural preservation and nationalistic pride have been at the root of this conflict, political pressure in both Phnom Penh and in Bangkok have continued to inflame a delicate situation on the ground.
While documenting the conflict, I was camped with Cambodian troops on the Dangrek escarpment near Preah Vihear Temple. I joined the soldiers on their morning jungle hikes, always sticking to the marked paths because landmines were a constant and deadly threat. We also patrolled new trenches along the contested border where Thai soldiers were dug in just meters from the Cambodians.
Standing amongst both Thai and Cambodian military personnel, I noticed a camaraderie and mutual respect between the soldiers. At every post they greeted one another, shared breakfast, exchanged photos, talked about future plans and even observed informal lunchtime truces to trade magazines, snacks and inspect spiritual charms. Most strikingly, they had more in common than not, both speaking fluent dialects of Khmer and Thai, eating the same food, playing the same games and listening to the same music.
Three years later, the International Court of Justice unanimously awarded the promontory of Preah Vihear to Cambodia and Thailand was obligated to withdraw its military and police forces.
In July of last year, renewed conflict erupted near Ta Moan Thom temple with the worst fighting since the dispute began. Tensions escalated and heavy weapons were deployed by both sides along the border. Thailand and Cambodia suffered many military and civilian casualties
It is heartbreaking that, after spending time with the RCAF and RTARF in the Cambodian jungle years ago, the same border tensions have flared up again. These Asian neighbours have far more in common than differences, sharing history and culture and on reflection, should be regarded as close relatives rather than as enemies and combatants.
Dawn patrol for this lone RCAF soldier. He makes his way along the ancient stone pathway through the fog as it leads him away from the temple grounds. Just beyond is the steep mountainside and suffocating jungle below.
An RCAF soldier stands vigil as mist envelops religious supporters and monks as they join together in prayer occupying one of Preah Vihear Temple’s inner sanctums.
Within the temple complex, monks oversee the prayer ceremony as Cambodian worshippers join in a collective chant.
Cambodians join in prayer and demonstrate their support for this sacred place and their country’s claim to the temple’s heritage.
Cambodian religious supporters of all ages join in Buddhist prayer and melodic chanting.
Early morning physical training begins for Cambodian soldiers at the temple steps descending deep into the surrounding jungle.
Chea Vannak, an eighteen year veteran with the RCAF pauses in the dense morning mist, inspecting the jungle area surrounding his mountain camp.
Supplies and provisions are transported by troops down the steep and precarious mountain terrain between outposts.
A morning cigarette helps begin the day deep within the jungle.
An RCAF soldier with his Soviet era AK-47 surveys the surrounding jungle from his small and isolated outpost on the mountainside.
This is one of the more comfortable camps and outposts I had encountered along this escarpment. It consisted of nothing more than a tarp and mosquito net. The combat boots have been strategically placed.
An evening portrait as this RCAF soldier embraces what comfort the hammock affords him along this mountaintop trench line.
A substantial and elaborate kitchen setup alongside the jungle trail. Food and warm meals seemed to be the priority in what were cold and wet conditions for many posted here.
Local villagers tending to and maintaining one of the ancient stone pathways leading to the temple entrance.
Cambodian troops with some levity among the mountain mist for their morning wash and oral hygiene routine.
The morning meal with RCAF soldiers shrouded in mist atop the mountain.
An RCAF Military Policeman enjoys a morning cigarette as a local villager collects water from the nearby Trapeang, an ancient small water reservoir.
This resourceful RCAF soldier lubricates his vintage Soviet area AK-47 with oils from the Makrut Lime.
This Thai Sergeant offers his Cambodian counterpart an afternoon snack reaching across one of several trenches that snake through this contested border zone.
Taking time to embrace some neutrality not far from their respective trench and bunker networks, these Cambodian and Thai troops share and discuss an article in a popular entertainment magazine.
Thai soldiers with their M-16s enjoy some downtime outside of their outpost along the disputed border area.
A dense fog envelops the area as this RCAF soldier makes his way along the ancient stone pathway leading to the temple.
This early morning physical training reaches the halfway point as these Cambodian troops take a break as they prepare for their steep ascent back up the escarpment through the jungle.
An RCAF soldier in the dense bamboo jungle outside of his camp enjoying a morning cigarette.
These Cambodian soldiers in conversation, updating each other with the day’s events along the newly constructed trench lines.
Thai Lieutenant Fah Ari shows his protective amulet and sacred talisman to RCAF troops.
The protective amulet or sacred and blessed talismans worn by Thai and Cambodian soldiers alike are thought to provide them with safety, luck and strength. Known to Cambodians as Kru Khmer, pendants and scrolls also protect against malevolent spirits and danger.
Food preparation in this pooling mountain stream as soldiers adapted to and functioned well amidst very rustic conditions.
A brief moment captured as this RCAF soldier poses for me amongst the dense bamboo jungle, not far from his camp.
RCAF Military Police guard the flag pole atop the ancient temple’s highest point. They prudently survey the surrounding temple ruins this cloudy evening in Northern Cambodia.